Amritsar, which translates to “pool of amrit/nectar”, is one of the most beautiful cities in the world and the holiest place for Sikhs, who make pilgrimages here every year. It’s believed that the communal kitchen at Sri Harmandir Sahib feeds langar to a hundred thousand people each day! Chances are, if you’re already traveling to India, you won’t just stay in Delhi. And you shouldn’t: pollution and overwhelming population/traffic aside, India is a massive country with plenty of incredible sights to see if you venture outside the capital. Why not add a stop in Amritsar if you’re able to?
When I first booked my ticket to India this year, I knew I would have to add a trip to Amritsar in between cousins’ weddings because it’s been almost two decades since my last visit to the city. Visiting Harmandir Sahib was the one thing I needed to do on this trip and my parents were able to make it happen. How, you may ask? We flew from Delhi to Amritsar late Monday night, spent all day Tuesday in Amritsar, and then flew back to Delhi Tuesday evening. While I recommend staying longer, it isn’t always feasible. So I’ve put together an itinerary of what to do in Amritsar if you have less than 24 hours.
Let’s get into it: here’s how to spend one day in Amritsar.
Sri Harmandir Sahib (The “Golden Temple”)
You cannot visit Amritsar without spending time at Sri Harmandir Sahib, which the Sikh Gurus envisioned as a spiritual and commercial center. Every year, millions of people flock to the city on pilgrimages, partake in langar, and bathe in the holy pool while praying, which is said to have healing properties. It is a few hundred years old and I still consider it one of the most peaceful places on the planet. However, because it’s become a tourist destination and crowds flock to see it, the lines to go inside the central Darbar Sahib are long and the queue can last hours, especially if you come around a gurpurab (a Sikh celebration or remembrance related to a Sikh Guru or an important moment in history). When my parents visited around Bandi Chhor Divas/Diwali, it took them almost four hours to finally go inside.
So my recommendation, whether you’re visiting around a gurpurab or not, is to visit Harmandir Sahib early in the morning around what we call amritvela (3 or 4 AM). It’s the most serene time of the day (and my favorite time) to visit. The crowds are hushed. It’s bathed in moonlight. The tiles are cold. The lines will be shorter and you’ll get a more fulfilling, less rushed experience. Closer to 6 AM, you’ll have a chance to visit the prakash of Sri Guru Granth Sahib Ji, where a procession walks with Guru Granth Sahib Ji from Sri Akaal Takht Sahib into the main Darbar Sahib building. It’s truly a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. Then, you can continue to wander around and explore the rest of the complex (including the Central Sikh Museum) before visiting the langar hall for a light breakfast.
Shopping
Amritsar is a fantastic place to go shopping and my mother prefers shopping here over Delhi. Take an hour (or two) to wander through the markets, and in and out of stores. As I mentioned before, Amritsar has always been a booming trade and commercial center, and the areas surrounding Harmandir Sahib have grown exponentially. There’s no better place to buy a new salwar kameez Punjabi suit or kurta pajama, cloth and fabrics, or a beautiful Phulkari chunni. Every time my parents or I visit, we always stop by the bookstore across from the main entrance to Harmandir Sahib. The man who runs the shop is a professor, is great to talk to, and has perfect book recommendations in both English and Punjabi. I keep collecting more and more Sikh history books.
A couple of tips: if you’re not Punjabi, don’t try to negotiate. You will see a lot of shops selling similar things; go explore but in the daylight. You should also ignore the kids that come up to you to sell things (this time, it was magnets).
Jallianwala Bagh
Steps away, you’ll find Jallianwala Bagh, which used to be a beautiful, tranquil oasis of a garden in the middle of the hubbub that is Amritsar. It has now, in my opinion, become nothing more than a propaganda machine of the Indian government. In another post, I called it a “somber reminder of colonial violence” as it’s where the massacre at the hands of Colonel Dyer and the British army took place on Vaisakhi in April 1918. It’s a harrowing experience if you’re aware of the history. Take the time to go through and learn more about the struggle for Indian independence while you listen to the Indian national anthem on loop. Be respectful and maybe avoid taking photos while you’re there unless you’re doing it respectfully (i.e. avoid the selfies, group pictures in front of the Martyrs’ Well, etc.)
Lunch: Kulwant’s/Bhai Kulwant Singh Kulchian Wale
Amritsar is a paradise for foodies but especially vegan and vegetarian foodies. One of the foods that the city is known for is Amritsari kulchhe, which are essentially flatbreads typically stuffed with spiced potatoes or paneer. Chefs have gotten even more creative and you can find a myriad of options. The most famous kulcha vendor in Amritsar is Kulwant’s, who runs Bhai Kulwant Singh Kulchian Wale. Here, the menu is small but you can get potato (aloo), cauliflower (gobi), pithi (lentils), or paneer kulchas or a mix of all four. They are served in a silver thaali (plate) with chole, a spiced chickpea curry. Of course, you’ll find Amritsari kulche all over the city if the line is too long but it’s the perfect meal for your visit.
The Partition Museum
After lunch, you’ll want to head over to The Partition Museum, which is about a ten-minute walk away. You’ll walk along the Heritage Walkway through the main part of the city and pass many stores. At the first roundabout, you’ll see the Maharaja Ranjit Singh statue, built to commemorate the first maharaja/emperor of the Sikh Empire. When you turn right at the third roundabout you’ll arrive at the museum but not before seeing the statues of Akali Phoola Singh, who was an Akali Nihang Sikh leader who helped unite the Sikh misls and later served as one of Maharaja Ranjit Singh’s advisors, and (Jarnail) Hari Singh Nalwa, who was the commander-in-chief of the Sikh army and played a pivotal role in the expansion of the Sikh Empire.
As mentioned in another post, the museum “serves to preserve the atrocities that took place in Punjab, along the Indo-Pak border, and in other places as a result of the lazy, hastened partition plan put forth by the British in 1947. Because of this separation, millions of people found themselves on the “wrong” side of the border, which resulted in the largest migration in world history. Unfortunately, this also led to an unfathomable amount of bloodshed and violence, with an estimated 800,000 fatalities (though the actual number is likely greater).”
The museum is another harrowing reminder of colonial violence and is a must-visit if you’re in Amritsar. Preserving history is crucial to remembering it and not repeating it, especially the lesser known tragedies of modern history. Tickets for foreigners are 250 rupees with children five and under (and Partition survivors) free. The building is wheelchair-accessible and guided tours are available on demand but no photography or videography is allowed inside.
Maharaja Ranjit Singh Museum & Garden
On the topic of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, he has his own museum in Amritsar located in Ram Bagh. It’s about a 25 to 30-minute walk from the Partition Museum or a 10-minute drive. I wouldn’t recommend walking because of the traffic but you can find rickshaws or taxis quite easily. The museum used to be his summer palace in the city and it contains many of his weapons and artifacts, in addition to paintings, manuscripts, coins, and much more. This museum is also closed on Mondays (and open from 10am – 5pm the rest of the week) and tickets cost 10 rupees per person. There’s also a garden within walking distance that you should check out.
Gobindgarh Fort
After, I recommend visiting the Gobindgarh Fort, which is a seven-minute drive or a 35 to 40-minute walk. You’ll pass quite a few mandirs/temples as well as the statue of Shaheed Udham Singh was a revolutionary who was hung for assassinating Michael O’Dwyer, who was responsible for the Jallianwala Bagh massacre (which Singh survived). If it isn’t obvious by now, Amritsar is a city of peace, of freedom, and of revolution. It’s a city steeped in history: it’s seen empires rise and fall. It’s seen violence and bloodshed in the name of empire. When you walk down the street, you’re walking in the steps of warriors and freedom fighters. It’s an exhilarating feeling but a reminder of how coveted the city is.
And any sought-after city needs to be protected. In central Amritsar, Gobindgarh Fort was constructed to help protect the city from invaders and it’s also believed that Maharaja Ranjit Singh kept his beloved treasures and loot here, including the renowned Koh-i-Noor. It was opened to the public in 2017 and translates to the “Fort of Gobind” with ‘garh’ meaning ‘fort’, named as such by the Maharaja after the 10th Guru of the Sikhs, Guru Gobind Singh Ji. It’s open from 10 AM – 10 PM and it’s easy to walk through.
Wagah Border
If you want to/if you have time, you can take a tour to the Wagah Border, which separates India and Pakistan by severing Punjab in half (see: the Radcliffe Line). I’ve never been because I have no desire to but it’s a hot tourist spot for those who want to see the military ceremonies around sunset.
Dinner
If you skip the Wagah Border, now’s the perfect time to grab dinner at any of the restaurants or street food carts in Amritsar. Like I said before, the city is a paradise for foodies. Try my favorite aloo poori or a samosa chaat, or paranthas. If you’re non-veg, don’t miss the chance to try authentic, spicy Amritsari fish (a staple).
After dinner, you can return to the airport or train station to head to your next destination or extend your stay in Amritsar.
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