If you’re going to India, I have helpful tips if you might be stopping in Amritsar to see the Golden Temple. Amritsar, which means “Pool of Nectar”, is no longer flying under the radar. It is the second-largest city in the state of Punjab and the holiest place for Sikhs. And while Sikhs don’t view the Darbar Sahib complex as a tourist destination, it has become one over the last decade and counting with a rumored hundred thousand daily visitors. The Government of Punjab has a Department of Tourism & Cultural Affairs and amritsartourism.org.in even advertises tour packages but please don’t do these.
Almost every one of my trips to India includes a trip to Amritsar. This past trip, we flew north Monday evening, had dinner and visited Darbar Sahib that night, before sleeping and returning to Darbar Sahib early in the morning. We then spent the rest of the day eating, exploring, and doing any remaining shopping before taking the afternoon flight back to Delhi.
If you’re also visiting Amritsar, you’ll undoubtedly visit Darbar Sahib but just because it’s become a tourist destination, doesn’t mean you should act like one. It is still a sacred space and certain rules should be followed while you’re visiting. The sevadars, who are generally volunteers, are strict and will turn you away or ask you to stop whatever it is you’re doing. This past trip, my chunni (scarf) slipped an inch while I did matha tek and I didn’t have a chance to fix it before one of the sevadars told me to fix it. If you follow my tips below, you should be fine but if they do say something to you, please listen and don’t instigate.
Without further ado, here are my top tips for visiting Sri Harmandir Sahib (the Golden Temple):
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- Wear Easy-to-Slip-Off Shoes and No Socks: You will be asked to take off your shoes to enter the complex by the Jora Ghar (“Shoe House”) as you will at any gurdwara. Wear a pair that are not new, fancy or complicated (essentially shoes that you wouldn’t mind getting stolen though you won’t have that problem here). I also recommend not wearing socks as you’ll wash your feet before you enter as well.
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- Keep Your Head Covered at ALL Times: Even before your enter the Darbar Sahib complex, you should keep your head covered. As a personal rule, I kept my head covered every time I left the hotel, no matter where I was going. But inside the Darbar Sahib complex, you MUST keep your head completely covered for the entire duration of your visit. For women, you’ll most likely be wearing a chunni or headscarf of some kind. Men can wear patkas (cloths) or even get their paghs tied at local stores if you ask nicely and pay for the fabric. Please don’t wear a cap or put the hood of your sweatshirt up; everyone may keep their mouth shut but it isn’t respectful.
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- Wear Modest Clothes: The simpler the clothes, the better. If you’re a woman and you can buy a salwar kameez, I absolutely recommend that you do. Men can purchase kurtas to wear over jeans or pants, or a full kurta pajama set. Do not, under any circumstances, show off your skin. No crop tops, etc.
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- Wash Your Hands and Feet: You should be clean before you enter the Harminder Sahib complex. This means taking a shower before you arrive and washing your hands and feet in the basins and sinks provided (after you’ve taken off your shoes). This is not optional.
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- Avoid Taking Photos/Videos: You may see signs around the complex prohibiting photography and videography inside. These aren’t just up for show: you shouldn’t be taking photos and videos as Sri Harmandir Sahib is a sacred place and religious institution. Depending on the day and which sevadars are walking around, you might think you’ll be able to get away with a photo or two (and that’s your prerogative) but don’t go overboard. Originally, if you wanted to do any special filming, you would have had to get approval but earlier this summer, after a yoga-related controversy, the SGPC banned all videography inside the complex but stated that they would relax the rules a bit on photos. As long as you’re being respectful, photos shouldn’t be a problem. However, you still cannot take photos inside the main Darbar Sahib.
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- Don’t Turn Your Back to the Main Darbar Sahib Complex: This rule is more unspoken but it’s something that’s been drilled into my head since I was a kid. At any gurdwara, but especially Darbar Sahib, you shouldn’t turn your back to Sri Guru Granth Sahib Ji, the holy scripture and 11th Guru of the Sikhs. If you’re not Sikh, you may not care about this tip as much but it’s still a sign of respect. If you’re visiting the complex with the right intentions, you’ll follow this one too.
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- Go Early in the Morning: As mentioned earlier, it’s commonly believed that a hundred thousand people visit Sri Harmandir Sahib and once you’re there, you’ll realize that the number isn’t far-fetched. The queues to get inside the central Darbar Sahib (inside the outer complex) can take three to four hours during the day, even more so during gurpurabs or special celebrations. If you want less rush and an easier time navigating through the crowds (and more time to see everything), go in the early hours of the morning around three or four o’clock (amritvela).
- Eat Langar: If you have time, you should absolutely stop by the langar hall and kitchens to partake in langar (and volunteer or donate some money). The common translation of langar is “community kitchen” where everyone sits together on rolled out carpets on the floor (if you’re physically able to) and eats a vegetarian meal prepared in the adjacent kitchens by volunteers. This is the concept of pangat in Sikhi where the spiritual congregation is called sangat. The concept of langar was actually started by Mata Kheevi, the wife of the second Sikh Guru, Guru Angad Dev Ji. It’s a vegetarian meal so that everyone can eat and everyone sits on the floor in a show of equality (no one is above or below anyone else). There’s another story here where the Mughal Emperor Akbar had gone to see the third Sikh Guru, Guru Amar Das Ji, but the Guru refused to meet him until he had taken langar. So the emperor sat on the ground and ate langar before he could take court with the Guru.
- Silence is Golden: Though the streets outside are noisy and overwhelming, the interior complex is one of the most serene places you’ll ever visit. You’ll hear sweet, melodious kirtan (hymns) over the speakers while you walk the parikarma and the cooing of words. You’ll hear quiet footstephs and whispered prayers. While you are in the presence of the Guru and in the complex, you should refrain from making too much noise or talking too loudly.
- Don’t Just Visit Darbar Sahib: the Guru and Darbar Sahib are built in the center as the most important part but the Harmandir Sahib complex has much more to see. After doing matha tek and venturing inside, you should walk the parikarma (perimeter) and visit other important spots like Gurudwara Thara Sahib; Sri Akaal Takht Sahib; Ber Baba Budha Sahib, Dukh Bhanjani Beri and Elaichi Ber; and the Central Sikh Museum. Akaal Takht Sahib is home to the governing body of the Sikhs and is where Guru Granth Sahib Ji rests during the night. The Central Sikh Museum houses historical artifacts, fantastic paintings, and portraits of shaheeds (martyrs) from the 80s and 90s in India, and is well worth a visit.
- Wheelchair Assistance is Available: If you can’t physically go inside the Harmandir Sahib complex (you can’t go upstairs, can’t walk at all, etc.), there is a small tower-like building across the street from the Jora Ghar (shoe house) where you can get a wheelchair. You’ll leave your shoes there and walk across to the main entrance to the complex, where you’ll be directed to the elevators. Another sevadar will be there to help and guide you.
Did I miss any important tips? Let me know in the comments below.
For more helpful information, check out a few of my other blog posts, like this and this.
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